Warm rolls with a hint of aniseed (so French), provide the accompaniment to some of the best meals I’ve eaten in Stoke Newington and actually, I’ve eaten most of those best meals in The Fox Reformed.

Succulent steaks slathered in peppercorn sauce, a fine Guinea fowl, the meat veritably falling from the bones. I must confess the only gripe I’ve ever heard about the food at The Fox Reformed emitted from my Mother’s lips as she pondered the quite small helping of fish perilously nestled on her creamed spinach but she had to confess that the taste more than made up for the small portion. 

All washed down with a fine wine. A quite broad selection is on show here and it seems quite inexpensive to me, but I won’t pretend I’m any sort of wine connoisseur.

A little port to follow, Madame? Perhaps a sweet wine? Of course, I needed something to aid digestion of the delicious, yet strangely 80’s looking Chocolate pot desert I had just forced down. My Mother had room as she had the fish, remember.

There is something brilliant about the shabby chic of this place; the knowledge that it’s been the same for years and probably will be for years to come; the ancient cafe-type tables, the strange chalet style toilet facilities. I don’t know the owners I must confess, and without wishing to be rude, the proprietor looks as though he’s seen a few good wines in his many years and has lots of good advice about what’s what.

It’s a venue for the more intellectual type, to be indulged further by joining in with the wine tasting, the book club or a few rounds of Backgammon. Don’t go there if you want to be flash but do go there if you like good, home-cooked food. There’s not a hint of ponce about this place and that is to be congratulated.

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